Sleepy San Jose del Cabo Awakens

Moonrise over Punta Gorda, Jan. 19, 2011

We chose San Jose del Cabo for our annual winer retreat in large part because it was smaller, quieter and less congested than Cabo San Lucas, about 20 miles to the southwest. Over the past five years we've convinced ourselves that that's the case and have been pleased by our choice. But from the start, we've learned that San Jose del Cabo isn't the static community it first seemed. It's actually fairly dynamic, and the scale and pace of change here seems to be intensifying. A friend who lives in the area fulltime just remarked that before long residents of San Jose del Cabo won't ever again have to make the trek to Cabo San Lucas; everything they need will be right here, short of a Costco, and who knows, that could be next  Just across the highway from the still relatively relaxed neighborhood in which we have our casa is the fast-rising framework of a monstrous Walmart. Eventually, this proximity will make our life here all the more convenient, provided we survive unscathed our dashes across the highway, already busy and sure to be even more congested when the Walmart opens. Why local officials approved such a huge structure fronting a narrow street (Valerio Gonzalez) with little available parking and awkward access  is a mystery. Selfishly, I'd like to see a pedestrian bridge built over the highway, but if that were to happen it likely would be coupled with a parking lot or garage on "our" side of the road, which isn't something I'd like to see encouraged.

We don't have to stroll far from our residence to find other signs of growth and change. The neighborhood convenience market Cactus Super-Mini has closed, possibly in anticipation of the opening of the Walmart. On the other hand, the well-stocked Mercado Organico has opened, inviting with the finest and most extensive selection of greens and herbs I've found in the area. Nikko Sushi has moved into the neighborhood, and just up the highway the long-vacant building that formerly housed the restaurant Milo's has been razed to make way for a fully automated car wash. New pizza and falafel joints are close by, and during the Thursday night art walk downtown a week ago we found four new galleries.

But some things never seem to change. One is the local ritual that on the night of a full moon you head to the beach to watch it rise over the Gulf of California. We packed the cooler with sandwiches, salsa and beer and made our way up the East Cape to watch the moon rise over Punta Gorda. And as popular as the rite may be, just one other couple was nearby, and they left before the moon was even up. We didn't stay long ourselves, given that it was somewhat breezy and chilly. The final stretch of the road to get to our favorite spot was as rutted and unpaved as ever. But wouldn't you know it, the first stretch of the trek from downtown San Jose del Cabo to the old fishing village of La Playa was on a new two-lane bridge spanning a wide arroyo that frequently floods during the occasional heavy rain.